-    Casa Allende, Calle San Francisco #25;  Tel:  152-1860

Celebrity chef Eduardo Osuna (who formerly worked at some of the best restaurants in Mexico City) has opened his fine, contemporary Mexican “alta cocina” restaurant to rave reviews.  Appetizers are especially tasty:  duck carnitas tacos, gorditas stuffed with fresh crabmeat and smoked marlin carpacchio.  Some main dishes include a thick ahi tuna steak sauteed in a tequila cream sauce, mahi mahi steamed with vegetables and herbs in a parchment package, and poblano chiles filled with marinated squid and octopus.  All served in three intimate dining rooms, or sit at the grand old bar.  Website:  http://www.casaallende.com.mx/

-   Cumpanio, Calle Correo #29;  Tel:  152-2327

This chic new dining room cum bakery to the side (hence the name) is run by the same chef who excels at the Dos Casas B&B restaurant.  Eclectic selection of salads, fish dishes and meats, all accompanied by the wonderful bakery breads.  Website features both bakery and restaurant photos at:  http://cumpanio.com/

-     Cafe Firenze, Salida a Celaya #3 (opposite the Longhorn);  Tel:  121-0763

Charming, casual Italian fare dished up in the streetside dining patio or upstairs in the breezy dining room with open arched windows.  Friendly talented chef/owners are Antonio and Gerardo.  Order the melt-in-your-mouth braised ribs or delicate homemade raviolis.  No wine list, but OK to bring your own (but be discreet about it – in a bag).  Open 12 pm to 4 pm for lunch/comida and from 5:30 – 9:30 pm for dinner.  Closed Mondays.

-    Hotel Matilda Restaurant, Calle Aldama #53 (former site of the venerable, now gone Villa Jacaranda Hotel);  Tel: 152 1015

Very chic, contemporary boutique hotel features a fine dining establishment.  Menu items include:  foie gras three ways; smoked duck breast, red mole rack of lamb, truffled asparagus; daily steak selections, plus a separate bar snack menu with custom pizzas and salads.  You can check menu specifics at:  http://www.hotelmatilda.com/enter.html.  Special events are the Sunday brunch and Thursday ladies night. Popular with the weekend Mexico City crowd.

-    Café Rama (newly expanded and reopening in June 2011), Calle Nemesio Diez #7 (street also is known as Calle Nueva or Paseo del Parque!), Tel: 154-9655

Gourmet café fare…but the real treat is Chef Jason’s special Friday night dinners, by reservation only, with a prix fixe of 400 pesos and a set tasting menu that changes each week, depending on what’s fresh and in season.  One recent menu:  oysters with truffle emulsion; an apple and mushroom salad; tilapia on spinach; pork with an amazing sauce; and your choice of chocolate crepes or a stunning carrot ginger cake.  Another Friday night menu:  Thai-style tuna carpacchio; prawns with fresh green curry and pineapple/coconut fried rice; rare beef salad with chayote/ginger/garlic; hot and sour seafood soup; dessert choice of warm coconut pudding with frozen lime parfait or chili-infused chocolate tarte.  Regular café hours (with a la carte menu) from 8am to 6 pm on Tues – Sat. Friday night dinners begin at 8 pm.  You can check out the changing menus online at:  http://www.cafe-rama.com/

-   1826 Restaurant at the Rosewood San Miguel Hotel, Calle Nemesio Diez #11;  Tel:  152-9700      

Open from 12 noon daily and into the evenings, the main dining room of the new Rosewood San Miguel features a Wednesday “enchilada night,” a Thursday “BBQ night”, plus tequila tastings on Fridays, as well as a Sunday brunch.  You also should visit the rooftop Luna Tapas Bar, open daily from 4 pm, with hands-down the best view of the San Miguel panorama, especially at sunset. It’s also possible to arrange for a private dinner in the wine cellar with a menu of your choosing – perfect for celebrating a special event.  Check out the Rosewood dining website at: http://www.rosewoodsanmiguel.com/en/dining.cfm

-    Mio Frio, Calle Mesones #66 (at the corner with Calle Hidalgo); Tel: 153 8639

Great new fat-free frozen yogurt shop, run by the same talented folks who own/operate the OKO Noodle Bar.  Located in Centro, so good for picking up a frozen treat to go as you walk around town.  Lots of flavors, plus a full array of toppings.

 -     Burrimania, Ancha de San Antonio # 2-A;  Tel: 154-4141

Casual burrito and taco place, with fresh, local organic ingredients “California-style”.  Great prices:  35 pesos for a regular burrito (variety of fillings, but love the pulled chicken); 45 pesos for a burrote (big size!);  40 pesos for a naked burrote (without tortilla);  35 pesos for an order of tacos – crunchy or soft; 45 pesos for side salads (rajas with chicken, nopales, jicama).  Newly-wed owners Roberto and Antonieta dish up their large plates Monday through Saturday from noon to 8 pm during May and June 2011.  After July 1st, they will be open on Sundays as well with expanded hours from 11 am to 11 pm.  Delivery possible to houses located within Centro, Guadiana, La Aldea and the first few blocks of San Antonio across from the Instituto.

CHRISTMAS EVE, 24 DEC:

-          La Puertacita Boutique Hotel Restaurant, Santo Domingo #75; 152-5011; 7-10 pm

480 pesos, plus 15% service fee:  Special Holiday Meal, incl. smoked salmon crepe; cream of mandarin soup or Christmas salad; turkey with gravy or salmon Portugal-style, yuletide log or glazed lime tartlet. 

-          The Restaurant, Sollano #16; 154-7877; 5-9 pm

495 pesos, plus service fee:  Special Holiday Meal, incl. duck liver mousse w/sweet shallots on croutons; prosciutto and lemon-stuff pork loin with roasted new potatoes/carrots/brussel sprouts or roasted turkey w/mole poblano sauce, goat cheese and chipotle chile tamalitos, braised Swiss chard and red rice; cinnamon churros with Mexican hot chocolate or classic pecan pie with whipped cream.

-          Casa Allende, San Francisco #25; 152-1860

650 pesos, incl. special holiday bar open until 3 am!  Special menu: starter of pepper/eggplant/onion confit on rustic bread; salad of 3 cheeses with cranberries or cream of potato soup; tuna sautéed in mandarins/fruit sauce or grilled filet of beef with Oporto sauce or roast duck with guayaba chile sauce;  dessert cup of red fruits in Grand Marnier cream; free bar with tequila, rum, vodka, Scotch, red/white wine, Baileys, plus live music.

-          Jackie’s San Antonio, Plaza de San Antonio #4; 110-2223; from 1 pm onward

550 pesos:  amuse bouche, crab mousse or ravioli filled with pumpkin/amaretto, roasted quail in orange Madeira sauce with red cabbage and vegetables or beef filet in Bordeaux sauce with potato/apple puree and vegetables, pear/apple tart with custard cream sauce or amaretto parfait with raspberries/vanilla sauce.

-          Hotel Matilda, Aldama #53; 152-0811

523 pesos, plus VAT and service:  Special Christmas Eve Menu, incl.  smoked trout with fresh dill/caper/crème fraiche and toasted brioche or jumbo poached shrimp cocktail or local prosciutto and melon; baby spinach/cheese/grilled mushroom salad with homemade bacon and cherry vinaigrette or mixed organic lettuces with spiced pecan/ginger/cranberry vinaigrette with local goat cheese; herb-roasted turkey, giblet gravy, whipped sweet potatoes and green beans or slow-roasted strip of American sirloin with horseradish potato gratin, chipotle-glazed carrots or pan-seared salmon with sautéed chard, buttermilk mashed potatoes, tangerine-terragon beurre blanc; whiskey blue-cheese apple pie with homemade vanilla ice cream or roasted pear and cherry trifle or holiday fruitcake with crème anglaise, includes 2 glasses of house wine.

-          Restaurante Iberico, Mesones #101; 152-6154

By special advance order (194-550 pesos):  whole suckling pig or ¼ roast lamb.  Also – grilled 10-oz rib eye or whole red snapper. Call for prices and other menu items and tapas.

-          Boca Bento at Los Senderos; Ave. Central #101; 11 am – 8 pm;  155-9594

480 pesos, includes one glass of wine and dessert:  Three-course meal, incl. carrot ginger soup or spicy chicken soup; organic mixed greens or arugula salad; almond-crusted beef medallions or cardamom-glazed jumbo shrimp; desserts.

-          Casa de Sierra Nevada, Hospicio #2 (Andanza Restaurant in Casa Principal); 152-7040 (main hotel desk)

Shellfish bisque, mole sauce-crusted shrimp, poached Maori fish, stuffed roast turkey with quince adobo, chocolate Yule log.  Call for reservations and prices.  Music from 7:30 pm…

-          Casa de Sierra Nevada, Santa Elena #2 (Restaurante Casa del Parque); 152-7040 (main hotel desk)

Traditional sautéed Romeritos with sweet corn, Vizcaino black cod milfoil, traditional stuffed roast turkey with mushroom tian and fresh cranberry sauce, traditional bread pudding and chestnut ice cream. Call for reservations and prices.  Music from 7:30 pm…

-          Tacos Don Feliz, Fray Juan de San Miguel #15 (Col. San Rafael);  152-5719 (reservations and 50% deposit a must!)

Special Dinner:  cream of corn soup or Caesar salad; salmon a la almondine or medallions of beef filet with mushrooms; caramel crepes with ice cream; house wine “all you can drink”.  Call for prices.

CHRISTMAS DAY, 25 DEC:

-          Mi Casa Restaurant, Ancha de San Antonio #20 (inside Instituto Allende), 1-10 pm; 154-5890

300 pesos:  Three courses, incl. pumpkin soup or cream of nut with chipotle chiles; oven-roasted turkey or glazed baked ham; traditional Mexican bunuelos or spiced apple cake.

-          El Buen Café, Jesus #36; 152-5807

390 pesos, plus 15% service fee.   Holiday Buffet:  Roast turkey w/mushroom gravy, peppered beef filet w/cognac cream, roasted garlic mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes w/pecans, creamed spinach, cornbread dressing, corn pudding, assorted homemade breads and salads, pies galore plus pumpkin cheesecake and Kahlua truffle cake.

-          Shanti San Miguel (outside of town; call for taxi service:  (415) 100-8396); 11 am to 5 pm.

200 pesos:  Jamaican-Style Christmas Day, with Jamaican patties, jerk chicken and pork, red beans and rice, cornbread and Jamaican fruitcake.  Cash bar with potent libations!

-          Casa de Sierra Nevada, Hospicio #2 (Andanza Restaurant in Casa Principal); 152-7040 (main hotel desk)

Live music at a special Christmas brunch starting at 1 pm on Christmas Day.  Call for reservations and prices.

-          La Mansion del Bosque, Aldama at Parque Juarez, corner with Tenerias;  152-0277; 1:30 – 3:30 pm with music

320 pesos, plus 15% service:  Tomato-basil soup, beet mold, roast turkey with cornbread stuffing, mashed potatoes, spinach supreme, yams glazed with honey butter, eggnog pie or date roll

-          Hotel Quinta Loreto, Loreto #15; 152-0042 or 152-3616

260 pesos, plus service:  fresh cranberry salad, cream of squash soup, roast fresh turkey with jalapeno cornbread stuffing and gravy, glazed sweet potatoes, fresh vegetables, mincemeat/pumpkin or pecan pie with ice cream, one glass of red or white wine.

-          Boca Bento at Los Senderos; Ave. Central #101; 11 am – 8 pm;  155-9594

480 pesos, includes one glass of wine and dessert:  Three-course meal, incl. carrot ginger soup or spicy chicken soup; organic mixed greens or arugula salad; almond-crusted beef medallions or cardamom-glazed jumbo shrimp; desserts.

-          Jackie’s San Antonio, Plaza de San Antonio #4; 110-2223; from 1 pm onward (same as on 24 Dec)

550 pesos:  amuse bouche, crab mousse or ravioli filled with pumpkin/amaretto, roasted quail in orange Madeira sauce with red cabbage and vegetables or beef filet in Bordeaux sauce with potato/apple puree and vegetables, pear/apple tart with custard cream sauce or amaretto parfait with raspberries/vanilla sauce.

-          Casa Allende, San Francisco #25; 152-1860

Special Xmas Day meal with traditional “bacalao a la vizcaina” (Basque cod dish), Romeritos, turkey, salad bar, holiday cocktails of the house.  Call for time and prices.

-          Hotel Matilda, Aldama #53; 152-0811

Offering a brunch menu (elegant egg dishes, brioche French toast, lighter fare) on both Christmas Day (Saturday) and on Sunday, December 26, from 11 am to 4 pm.

- The Restaurant, Calle Sollano #16, Tel: 154-7877; gourmet 4-course meal, incl. arugula salad or potato/leek soup, lavendar honey-glazed roasted turkey with mushroom/cornbread stuffing, sauteed brussel sprouts with house-curerd bacon, cranberry chutney, pumpkin tart w/gingersnap-pecan crust or vanilla-scented apple/cranberry bread pudding with vanilla ice cream…and more…; $595 pesos

-Antigua Villa Santa Monica, Fray Jose Guadelupe Mojica #22, Tel: 152-0451 or 152-0427; 1 pm seating for 3-course meal, including herb-roasted turkey breast or honey-baked ham and eggnog and pumpkin pies….; $420 pesos

-Bistro Los Senderos, Ave. Central #101, Col. Adolfo Lopez Mateos, Tel: 155-9594; 1 pm seating for menu of roasted turkey breast, vegetarian option, butternut squash soup, chive mashed potatoes, pumpkin cheesecake…; $395 pesos+service

-Hotel Quinta Loreto, Calle Loreto #15, Tel:  152-0042; from 1:30 – 5:30 pm; roast turkey with jalapeno cornbread stuffing and gravy, fresh vegetables, golden pecan or pumpkin pies…; $260 pesos

- Mi Casa (inside the Instituto Allende), Ancha de San Antonio #20, Tel: 154-5890; cream of pumpking soup, roast turkey with whipped sweet potatoes, green beans, homemade cornbread…; $290 pesos

-La Casa del Diezmo, Calle Jesus #36, Tel: 152-5807; seatings at 1 pm, 3:30 pm and 6 pm; buffet with roast turkey with tarragon green beans, chestnut stuffing, pumpkin or apple pie….; $320 pesos

-Patsy’s Place, Rancho Las Madrinas (20 min north of town, but taxis will take you there), Tel: 185-2151 or cell 044-415-153-5303; 2 pm seating for fried squash blossoms, baked turkey with dressing and gravy, mashed potatoes, organic roasted vegetables, pumpkin or pecan pie…; $350 pesos

-Cafe Iberico, Calle Mesones #101, Tel: 152-6154; from 2 pm onward for a Spanish-flavored Thanksgiving, incl. whole or half-roasted suckling pig, half or quarter-roasted lamb; 24-hour advance reservations requested

-La Puertacita Boutique Hotel, Calle Santo Domingo #75, Col. Los Arcos, Tel: 152-5011; from 2 pm onward, a 4-course meal incl. Waldorf salad or cream of zucchini soup, turkey with prune sauce or beef medallions an pumpking or pecan whiskey pie; includes bottle of sparkling wine….$450 pesos + 15% service.

-Andanza at Casa de Sierra Nevada, Calle Hospicio #35, Tel: 152-7040; traditional turkey brunch from 11 am – 5 pm, $420 pesos; traditional turkey dinner from 6-10:30 pm, $330 pesos; tax and service included in both prices.

The restaurant scene in San Miguel keeps getting better and better, even in tough economic times.  Here are some new places to try on your next visit to San Miguel:

-Café Iberico: Calle Mesones #101 (across from Teatro Angela Peralta); Tel:  152-6154; open every day.

This Spanish tapas bar and paella restaurant moved several months ago from its much smaller former location in Colonia San Antonio into the larger dining room and patio on Calle Mesones where Restaurante Nirvana used to be (and that establishment has now moved out of town to a lush country location near Atotonilco).  Come to Café Iberico for a drink and a snack, and you’ll end up making a whole dinner out of the very tasty small plates of fried avocado, chile shrimp, merluza (firm, white fish) in white wine/parsley sauce, jamon de serrano, fried pimientos del padron, Spanish meatballs, and much more. 

 -Mezzanine Bistro by Bobo:  Cuna de Allende #11, alongside and across from the Parroquia (go back through the patio and up the little stairs); Tel: 152-2799

A chic, intimate Continental restaurant with prix-fixe menu prices for week-day lunch (250 pesos) and weekend dinners (350 pesos).  The owners are from France and Portugal, and the menu reflects both the best of local seasonal ingredients and the owners’ two culinary heritages:  Lisboa espresso beef filet with gratin dauphinois; fish “meuniere” sautéed with a lemon butter sauce; Azorean aioli prawns sautéed with peppers & onions; stuffed roasted eggplant with goat cheese, baby arugula and walnuts in a red pepper and tomato coulis; chocolate mousse layer cake; and Alsatian pear tarte.  The menu changes weekly and you can bring your own wine for a small corkage fee.  Reservations essential!  The owners also operate the Bobo home décor store in the same patio.

 -El Rincon de la Malinche (in the spot formerly occupied by La Capilla): Cuna de Allende #10, attached to the back side of the Parroquia; Tel: 152-0698

Newly opened in mid-Aug 2010, this restaurant/music venue arguably has the best and most romantic setting in San Miguel, with its ancient stone walls and lovely roof terrace looking right up into the spire of the Parroquia church.  A bar downstairs features live music Thurs – Sat from 6 pm to midnight.  For now, there is a brunch menu most days of the week featuring various egg benedict dishes, house-cured mezcal lox, traditional Mexican morning meals, waffles and blackened salmon.

 -La Sirena Gorda (aka El Manantial, the original neighborhood cantina name since 1920!): Calle Barranca at the corner with Calle Huertas, in residential SE Centro 

A casual neighborhood pub with simple lunch and dinner fare to enjoy inside or on the back patio.  Currently has a reputation for dishing up the best fish tacos in San Miguel (try the smoked ahi tuna taco)!  Local, lively bar scene at night.

-OKO Noodle Bar:  In the Plaza Alhondiga, across from Mega on your right as you head out of town on Salida a Celaya; Tel: 110-3283

A small, funky Asian fusion restaurant with a fresh menu, live music, and a fun, hip vibe.  Creative cocktails (try the wasabi martini!) complement the simple Asia fare – tempura ahi tuna, rice-paper spring rolls, very fresh noodle salads and Vietnamese Pho soups, plus Pad Thai.

 -Via Organica Café (inside San Miguel’s most extensive organic market and food shop): Calle Margarito Ledesma #2 (in Colonia Guadalupe, just north of Centro); Tel: 152-8042

Open every day from 8:30 am to 7 pm, with Sunday brunch from 12 – 4 pm

-Shanti San Miguel (a yoga retreat about 45 min northeast of town – for transportation, call Saul Hernandez at 044-415-113-4140): For Shanti meal or massage reservations, call:  044-415-100-8396

The restaurant around the lovely Shanti pool now serves an organic brunch, Indian food and Korean tacos and BBQ on Saturdays and Sundays.  Makes a nice outing, if you call to reserve a massage or partake of the yoga classes and use the pool.

 These existing favorites have new menus this year, which you might want to check out:

 -Dos Casas (inside the B&B of the same name): Calle Quebrada # 101 (at the corner with Calle Umaran); Tel: 154-4073 or 154-4958

Open daily from 9 am to 9 pm for breakfast, lunch and dinner.  Not only a new menu and new chef, but a totally revamped and newly redecorated dining room as well.  Cute little wine bar and central patio, in addition to the inside dining space.

 -Boca Bento Bistro (Part of the Los Senderos development just 2.5 km north of town but entered off the Libramiento; easy to reach via taxi)  Latin grill specialties with a distinctive Asian flair and signature drinks and wine list.  Lovely outdoor setting overlooking organic garden and horseriding trails. Tues – Sat, 1 pm to 9 pm; Sun, 11 am to 7 pm, Sunday brunch menu from 11 am to 1 pm; Tel: 155-9594.  Check the menu at http://www.bocabento.com

 -El Tomato (not just vegetarian anymore, as the new menu also features select beef, fish and turkey with new Argentine-Italian fusion fare): Calle Mesones # 62; Tel: 154-6390

Open for lunch and dinner, 12 pm to 9 pm

And, some SAD NEWS:  Unfortunately, these restaurants have CLOSED during the past year:

- El Campanario – a wonderful, long-time establishment for elegant dining with great seafood

- Billy’s Hot Dogs – a fun casual spot with a good variety of sausages

- El Bajo Fondo – a lovely patio restaurant known for its organic vegetarian fare

- Cha-Cha-Cha – one of the best neighborhood (San Antonio) places for traditional Mexican food

Al fresco diners enjoy the lovely gardens at the Nirvana Restaurant/Retreat near Atotonilco.

Visitors who want a sense of the lovely countryside around San Miguel often combine a country outing with a Sunday brunch or weekend comida at a “destination” restaurant.  Some of our favorite places for dining in the country are:

Patsy’s Place… At a rancho north of town, off the road to Dolores Hidalgo.  Turn right just opposite the Atotonilco Pemex station and follow the signs through a small village and across alfalfa fields and a cattle ranch to end up at Patsy’s Place, also known as Rancho Las Hadas Madrinas (Rancho of the Fairy Godmothers).  Local caterer and event planner Patsy DuBois opens her wonderful country kitchen and dining terrace to weekend visitors for a special prix-fixe brunch.  Reservations are a must.  Tel:  185-2151.  You also can make arrangements with Patsy for private cooking classes at her rancho.

Ristaurante da Andrea at Hacienda Landeta… East of town on the Carretera a Dr. Mora at Km. 2.5.  On the grounds of an old hacienda, Italian restauranteur Andrea runs arguably one of the best restaurants in the area, with lunch and dinner available Thurs – Sun.  His homemade raviolis are to die for, and the seasonal menu of grilled meats and fish is recited by the waiters tableside, since there are no printed menus.  You simply order what is fresh that day.  Reservations needed to secure an outside table.  Tel:  120-3481.

Nirvana Restaurant/Retreat… Inside Rancho Las Palmas, near La Gruta and El Cortijo north of town off the road to Dolores.  The adobe structures and lovely grounds of a private rancho have been turned into the new (as of April 2010) locale of Nirvana Restaurant, long a favorite dining spot in town for Mexican fusion cuisine, which has now moved to the country.   Plans include adding several guest rooms and a spa to transform the rancho into a true nirvana retreat.  Call ahead to check which days it’s open (variable).  Tel:  185-2194.

The Bistro at Los Senderos… Part of the Los Senderos development just 2.5 km north of town but entered off the Libramiento, which includes a winery, an equestrian center, residential areas and lots of green space. The Bistro overlooks a bucolic setting from its open-air dining knoll alongside the restaurant’s organic garden.  Open for lunch Wed – Sun and evenings by reservation.  There’s also a weekend brunch and tapas menu in addition to contemporary seasonal offerings and grilled items.  Tel:  155-9571 or 155-9594.

La Burger… A fun roadside café, about 7 km north of town on the road to Dolores before you get to La Gruta hotsprings.  This casual open-air dining spot features a simple menu, superbly prepared, of grilled hamburgers and steaks over the large mesquite BBQ, with homemade parsley fries.  Open Wed – Sat, 1 – 9 pm and Sun from 1 – 6 pm.  Tel (cell only):  044-415-114-0073.

- Christmas Eve Suppers

1) Bistro Los Senderos (outskirts of town)/300 pesos;

2) The Restaurant (at Calle Sollano 16)/495 pesos;

3) El Ochenta Restaurante (at Calle Mesones 80)/590 pesos;

4) Jackie’s San Antonio (opposite the San Antonio church)/500 pesos

- Christmas Day Comida

1) La Puertacita Boutique Hotel (up Calle Santo Domingo)/400 pesos;

2) Buffet at El Buen Cafe (new location at Calle Jesus 26)/350 pesos;

3) Rancho Casa Luna (in the countryside)/$40 USD (incl. transportation);

4) Jackie’s San Antonio/500 pesos

Trendy setting with good service and a changing continental menu, including seafood soup, vegetable terrine, linguini with clams, braised duck breast with figs, roasted pork loin, escolar fish and citrus crepes for dessert. 

Located at Plaza de San Antonio #4 (across from the San Antonio church in Col. San Antonio), up on the 2nd floor with a lovely view back toward the Parroquia and Centro, hip all-white roof terrace bar, plus valet parking and an elevator.  Reservations necessary:  110-2223

Café Iberico

Cozy neighborhood café featuring an array of tasty tapas – grilled shrimp, goat cheese and honey, fried avocado, chorizo, marinated mushrooms, stuffed Spanish peppers, calamari – and if you still have room, you can also order two types of paella:  seafood or Valencian-style with rabbit. 

Located at Calle 20 de Enero #30, in Col. San Antonio; 101-8483.  You can check menus online:  www.cafeiberico.com.mx

Sicilia in Bocca

With possibly the best view of San Miguel and the surrounding countryside from its dining terrace, this Sicilian specialty restaurant is under the guidance of Chef Flaviano, who cooks up such dishes as fettuccine alla bottarga (with tuna roe) and a penne alla giardinera, with grilled eggplant and sun-dried tomatoes. His almond semifreddo covered with bittersweet chocolate sauce is a favorite Sicilian dessert.

Located at Salida a Queretaro #91, in southeastern Centro up the hill, right across from the Mirador lookout and at the corner with Calle Piedras Chinas;  152-0406

Carcassonne

A southwestern French/Basque restaurant, run by the talented Guillermo and Hannah, Carcassonne has taken over the building formerly occupied by the Mosqueta appliance store two blocks east of the Jardin.  The newly transformed dining room is an inviting space, creating a special ambience for such dishes as scallop ceviche, a salad of sliced brie/citrus fruits/mangos in a reduced balsamic vinaigrette, a light fish filet sauteed in a delicate pesto sauce with chile specs or a scrumptious trout almondine.  For dessert, try the pistachio souffle. The wait staff is attentive and well-informed.

Located at Calle Correo # 34;  152-0053 (reservations recommended for Thurs – Sat nights)

George Samuel Restaurant

Fine international cuisine in the intimate rooftop setting of the very trendy Casa Misha B&B.  Some now consider this the best elegant restaurant (with food, service and prices to match) in San Miguel.  Check out the B&B website at http://www.casamisha.com 

Located at Chiquitos #15 in Centro, just three blocks east from the Jardin.  Reservations a must:  152-2021. Open Thursday to Monday, 6-10 pm, and on Sunday for all-day brunch, 12 – 7 pm.

Café Rama (part of the Natura organic food store)

Run by chef/owner Jason Malloff, Café Rama is a welcome addition to the increasing number of organic restaurants in town.  This simple, moderately priced café offers two kinds of breakfast quiche, pulled pork sandwiches, a lamb shepherd’s pie, as well as the baked chocolate mousse dessert and a variety of unusual truffles (bacon, tobacco with sea salt,chili).

Located at Calle Nueva #4 (on some maps, the street is also called Paseo del Parque), inside and through to the back patio of the Natura store. 

Via Organica (café inside another organic food store)

Stop at the simple patio café for healthful snacks and more, then shop in the multi-room store for some of the best fresh organic produce, cheeses, preserved goods and frozen items, plus wood-oven baked goods from the organic bakery (Panaderia Casanova) across the street.  Gluten-free breads are also available.  Via Organica not only supports local organic growers, it also runs an organic farming workshop and sponsors efforts for regional fair trade groups.

Located at Calle Margarito Ledesma # 2 in Colonia Guadalupe, 185-2195

Dragon Chino

A small Chinese restaurant on the southside of town with take-out and free home delivery service, Dragon Chino has become so popular in its first few months that the location moved across the street to a larger space.  Specialities include Peking duck (by special order), orange beef, General Tso chicken, crispy walnut shrimp, moo shu pork/vegetables/chicken/beef or shrimp and a variety of soups and appetizers.

Located at Salida a Celaya #71, across from the main Telmex office.  Open 12-9 pm every day but Tuesday,  185-8686.

La Jarochita

A Vera Cruz-style casual seafood café, this restaurant has two locations, both receiving good reviews for their extremely fresh seafood and their scrumptious fish tacos “de Nayarit.”  The fish ceviche cocktails are fresh, sweet and generous.  A small such cocktail Campeche-style (with shrimp, oysters and octopus) is only $28 MXN pesos and is large enough for a filling meal when combined with a fish taco or two.  Open for lunch, snacks and dinner up to 9 pm, but closed on Tuesdays.

Location #1: In the partially constructed mall next to Hospital de la Fe (west side) off the Libramiento

Location #2:  In the Primavera mall, which is right behind the small Pollo Feliz outlet at the top of the Salida a Queretaro,  just before the glorieta on the right-hand side going up the hill

PLUS:  Upscale favorite, The Restaurant, Calle Sollano #16, now features a more casual “Hamburger Night” every Thursday.  Homemade buns, fresh-ground beef, a tasty stack of potato slices of many colors and an array of toppings make for a satisfying, gourmet burger meal.  Options for vegetarians, too, including  salmon and Portobello mushroom burgers.

ALSO:  The Longhorn Smokehouse, formerly in a tent behind Espinos grocery, has moved to the southside of town on the Ancha de San Antonio in the space formerly occupied by BBQ Bob’s, which is just north of the Pemex station and south of Prolongacion 5 de Mayo.  Great barbecue ribs, pulled pork sandwiches and a very reasonably priced steak special on Thursday nights.  The bar is a popular neighborhood hangout.

Café de la Parroquia, Jesus #11, 152-3161. 7:30 am – 4 pm, until 2 pm Sunday. Closed Monday. Outdoor patio. Great for breakfast.  Come back at night to sample tasty bistro fare at the Restaurante La Brasserie, located in the inside dining room to the right of the cafe’s entrance (Tues through Saturday, 5 – 10 pm).

The Restaurant, Sollano  #16 (inside the Sollano 16 home décor store in the central patio), 154-7862. This is San Miguel’s newest citadel of haute cuisine, with changing seasonal menus and occasional wine pairing dinners.  Expensive, but exquisite, arguably the best restaurant in town.  Dinner only, Tuesday – Saturday, 5 pm – 10:30 pm.  Reservations are a must.  Bar tables in rear, but main dining in courtyard and the red room.

El Pegaso, Corregidora #6; 152-1351.  8:30 am – 10 pm. Closed Sunday. Varied menu, something for everyone! Three great meals a day (plus scrumptious desserts) served by bi-lingual waiters.

Villa Santa Monica, Baeza #22, 152-0427. 8 am – noon, 1:30 – 10 pm.  The setting can’t be beat:  an elegant courtyard, complete with flowers, birds and a fountain. Great for its Sunday brunch buffet.

Nirvana, Mesones #101 (inside Casa Linda), 150-0067. Daily 8:30 am – 10 pm, closed Tuesdays. Breakfast/lunch/dinner.  Modern Mexican fusion cuisine, a favorite of the local ex-pat community.  Sit in the cozy dining room or outside in the covered patio. Also has a wine bar.  Try the hibiscus quesadillas and the watermelon gazpacho!

El Correo, Correo #23, 152-4951. 9 – 10 pm. Closed Wednesday. Small restaurant, serves breakfast, lunch and dinner close to El Jardín. Sopa Azteca here is one of the best!

Posada Carmina, Cuna de Allende #7-A, 152-0458. 7:30 am – 6 pm. Closed Tuesday. Enjoy a leisurely lunch in an orange-treed courtyard. Good value for the daily prix-fixe comida.

El Campanario, Canal #34, 152-0775. 1 – 11 pm. Closed Thursday. Upscale, traditional Mexican candlelight dining with excellent service. One of the better places for fresh seafood in town.

 Planta Baja, Canal #28, at the corner with Hernandez-Macias. 154-6555. Open Sun-Thurs, 1-11 pm, Fri-Sat, 1 pm – 12 midnight.  Modern Mexican cuisine, with small plates, grilled items, and a lively bar.

Food Factory, located at Fabrica La Aurora Design Center (inside to the left). Calzada de la Aurora (north of town, just past bridge  and to your right). 152-3982. Mon-Sat, 12 noon – 10 pm. Closed Sunday. Lovely bistro with international cuisine.  Close to a fun wine bar for before/after dinner!

Bugambilia, Hidalgo #42, 152-0127. Noon – 11 pm. Authentic Mexican food in a patio setting. One of the oldest restaurants in San Miguel.  Chiles en nogada are a specialty.

Tio Lucas, Mesones #103, 152-4996. Noon – midnight. A San Miguel classic, across from the Angela Peralta Theater.  Excellent steaks, arrachera, and flaming desserts. Live jazz at night. Bi-lingual owner Max is the consummate restaurant host, making everyone welcome.

Harry’s New Orleans Café, Hidalgo #12, 152-2645. Noon – midnight. Creole, Cajun and Mexican cooking. Lively bar scene.

Dila’s, Ancha de San Antonio #31, 152-4050. Tues-Sun, 12 noon – midnight. Closed Monday. Tired of Mexican food? Try San Miguel’s only Sri Lankan restaurant for curries and great noodle dishes.  Nice, warm atmosphere.

Hecho en México, Ancha de San Antonio #8, 154-6383. Noon – 10 pm. Consistently good comfort food at reasonable prices served by bi-lingual staff.  Try the brownie-a-la-mode and peanut butter pie!

Casa Payo, Zacateros #26, 152-7277. 1 – 10 pm, 9 pm Sunday. Argentinean grill with indoor/outdoor dining areas. Manolo’s Sports Bar is part of the restaurant – widescreen TV.

Pueblo Viejo, Umarán #6, 152-4977. 8 am – 1 am. Good selection of traditional food in a Mexican setting. Music at lunch and dinner. Near El Jardín.  Check out the rooftop bar (entrance is inside Pueblo Viejo Restaurant) called La Azotea!

Bella Italia, Canal #21 (inside Plaza Colonial), 152-4989. Daily 1-11 pm.  Basic Italian food and pasta.  Live entertainment usually on Thurs-Fri-Sat evenings at 8:30 pm.   If Gil y Cartas are playing, and Doc Severinsen is there too, you will need reservations in advance!

El Ten-Ten Pie, Cuna de Allende #21 (corner of Cuadrante behind the Parroquia church), 152-7189. Daily 9 am – 1 am. Casual café with great tacos and homemade tortillas.  Reasonable prices.            

Dining Update – Newly Opened Restaurants in Summer 2009

Even in this difficult economic year, San Miguel continues to be a great dining destination.  During your next visit, be sure to check out this variety of new eating establishments, both simple and high-end, which have opened recently in town (and which you won’t find mentioned in any guidebooks yet!):

El Ochenta Restaurante, Calle Mesones # 80; 152-2897.  This elegant new restaurant, set in a sophisticated patio between Teatro Angela Peralta and Banco Monex, is operated by the same chef and restaurant staff who previously ran the now-closed Restaurante Azafran.  The menu features “modern Mexican” cuisine using seasonal organic local produce and meats prepared with minimal oils and fats.  Definitely a more upscale place… Open daily, 8 am to 11 pm.

Socialitte, Calle Correo # 47-A (just above Chiquitos, 2 blocks east of the Jardin); 154-4816.  Contemporary Italian fare is presented here by some of the better trained waiters in town.  The owner previously ran restaurants in Florida and Playa del Carmen; seafood pastas are a specialty.  Prices are mid-range for San Miguel.  Open for comida and into the evening.  Closed Sundays.

 The new El Buen Café, Calle Jesus # 36.  Stop by to make a reservation, or send an e-mail:  info@mexicocooks.com Well-known San Miguel restaurateur/caterer Kris Rudolph has moved her beloved café to a new, larger setting just down the street from the former location at the corner of Jesus and Pila Seca.  For a leisurely breakfast, try homemade biscuits with strawberry butter while dining in the charming garden patio.  Kris also prepares great Mexican specialties and offers traditional Mexican cooking classes.

El Gozo, Calle Zacateros # 85 (at Ancha de San Antonio, across from Espinos grocery).  This upscale sports bar/café has a variety of chicken wing preparations, light meals and a tasty Philly cheesesteak sandwich.  Great if you want a lively atmosphere, with four flatscreen TVs on the walls for watching sports events.

Sappos Restaurante, Paseo del Parque # 10 (in between Ancha de San Antonio and Parque Juarez); 154-7128. Casual Mexican lunches are served in the lovely fountain courtyard of a grand villa.  Order guacamole, chicken fajitas and some margaritas…and while away a leisurely afternoon in this peaceful garden setting.

Cerveceria “San Miguel”, Carretera San Miguel/Dolores Hidalgo, Km. 1; 154-7888.  This is San Miguel’s first brew pub, with on tap 8 draft beers and a wood-burning domed oven for baking thin-crust pizzas with “Thai Chicken”, “Arrachera Beef” and “Vegetarian” toppings, among others.  A variety of hamburgers is also available.  Appetizer specialties are the green-fried tomatoes and deep-fried blooming onion flowers. Open daily, noon until closing.

Fenicia, Calle Zacateros # 73 (between Pila Seca and La Aldea); 154-7874.  Come here for Comida Libanesa, representing the large Lebanese community in Mexico (Salma Hayek’s family among them).  Open for lunch and into the late afternoon (Mon & Tues, 12 – 6 pm; Wed to Sat, 12 – 8:30 pm) for sampling the succulent chicken kabobs, Middle Eastern salads, and delicate baklava.

Mivida Restaurante, Calle Hernandez-Macias # 97; 152-7482.  Chef David has arrived in San Miguel from Genoa with his beautiful partner and co-chef Greta to open “Mivida,” an Italian restaurant with a Mexican touch.  This is the new place in the same building where Azafran and Gallo restaurants used to be. Try the shrimp tagliatella on homemade fettucine pasta in a shrimp bisque/pinenut sauce, followed by the organic mango sorbet, infused with green tea, cinnamon and anise and served on a bed of chopped fruits.  

Woolis Kabaan (a Mayan phrase, meaning “the world goes around”); Calle San Francisco # 25; 152-1860.  Chef Guillermo dishes up Mayan specialties from the southern Mexican states of Oaxaca and the Yucatan at this three-room restaurant/bar located just two blocks east of the Jardin.  Seafood delicacies such as flounder en papiote and sea bass steamed in banana leaves are offered alongside pork loin tacos with achiote sauce in homemade tortillas, a spicy variation of chile relleno and the traditional Yucatan sopa de lima.  Wednesday is shrimp night.

San Miguel House Rentals can help you plan a stop in Mexico City before or after your stay in San Miguel…and we can recommend our favorite restaurants there and help you get reservations and even a chauffeur to take you on a dining tour at night.  We go often to DF (Distrito Federal), just to try another great restaurant, so we would love to share our dining notes with you.