The festival started in the city of Guanajuato more than 50 years ago. Since then it has grown to be one of the largest cultural events in Latin America, and many of the concerts and exhibitions now take place in San Miguel de Allende. This year, nine of the featured international events from the Guanajuato festival also will be performing here during the three-week period.

Some of the “must see” performances this year include:

GravityWorks: Friday, October 14, 2011, at the Jardín Principal. This local circus troupe will be performing spectacular aerial acrobatics and dance.

“Robinson at Rosewood: Jazz Two Ways”: Wednesday, October 19, 2011, at the Rosewood Hotel.  An exciting evening of Latin Jazz and Funk with two great new bands led by Doug Robinson.

The Oslo Camerata: Sunday, October 16, 2011, at the Teatro del Obraje. This Norwegian group will perform music by Karl Philipp Emmanuel Bach (Johann Sebastian’s son) and Norwegian composer Edvard Grieg.

El Quinteto Real: Saturday, October 22, 2011,at the Angela Peralta Theater.  El Quinteto Real, from Argentina, will play a tribute to tango and milonga.

La Grande Chapelle: Friday, October 28, 2011, inside the Parroquia church. This group from Spain will offer a vocal and instrumental concert of traditional Spanish music.

Forbidden City Chamber Orchestra: Saturday, October 29, 2011, at Angela Peralta Theater.  Contemporary music played with traditional Chinese instruments will be performed for the audience’s delight.

And many more…

For schedule and ticket information, check out this website: www.cervantinosanmiguelallende.com

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1) Climb up the ancient pyramid at the newly opened  Cañada de la Virgen archeological site.

While you can cab to this fascinating pre-Hispanic pyramid about 30 min southwest of town to explore on your own for less cost, the absolutely best way to visit the site is to join a guided tour with archeologist Albert Coffee.  Albert’s tour, lasting about 4 hours including transportation to/from the site, costs $40 USD per person.  Now a San Miguel resident, Albert was the only U.S. archeologist who was invited to participate in the official government excavation and restoration of the pyramid, and he offers an entertaining and insightful treasure trove of historical/geographical/anthropological facts about the ruin.  You can contact Albert directly to ask about tour times.  His local phone in San Miguel is:  415-102-5583.  You also can send him an e-mail at: acoffee@live.com.mx.   NOTE:  To preserve the natural landscape, cars are not allowed near the archeological zone.  Visitors must hike about 3 km up a gradual slope to reach the pyramid, so this tour is for able walkers wearing comfortable shoes!  Be sure to bring a hat and some water, too.

2) Shop for local organic produce at the Saturday organic farmer’s market.

Since the spring of 2011, local farmers have displayed their organic lettuces, tomatoes, squash and herbs in booths set up in the southwest corner of the Rosewood/Artesana complex during a Saturday morning outdoor market.  A couple of booths also sell artisanal cheeses and wild honey.  In addition, you can sample freshly made gorditas and other Mexican snacks served at simple food stalls.  It’s good to show up early, around 9:30 am, for the best selection.  Enter the Rosewood/Artesana property from Ancha de San Antonio, near the intersection with Codo.

3) Take in the incredible city view from the rooftop Luna Bar at the Rosewood Hotel.

No doubt about it, the expansive panorama from the Luna Bar is now the best view in town.  The town appears to embrace you from this vantage point, which also is our top choice for your sunset cocktail hour.  From the hotel’s main entrance on Calle Nemesio Diaz (formerly also known as Calle Nueva and Paseo del Parque), take the elevator to the roof terrace on the third floor.  Drinks and tasty tapas are understandably pricey in this elegant locale, which opened to the public in February 2011.

4) Visit the “Museo la Esquina”, San Miguel’s unique Mexican toy museum.

This fanciful collection of Mexican folkart and toys represents the personal private collection of Angelica Tijerina, gathered over the past 30 years from her travels throughout Mexico.  Housed in a renovated old “casona” at the corner of Nunez and San Francisco, the toy museum is open Wed – Sat from 10 am to 6 pm and on Sun from 10 am to 3 pm.  General admission is 30 pesos.  You also can check out the museum’s website at: http://www.museolaesquina.org.mx/

5) Sample fresh artisanal local breads at the gourmet bakeries in town.

Call it part of the Mexican slow-food movement or a new appreciation for fine baking, but there seems to be a bevy of new bakers in San Miguel.  While the best place for pastries is still Chef Paco Cardenas’ Petit-Four bakery on Mesones, you’ll find crusty sourdough and multi-grain loaves, plus some sweet breakfast breads, fresh out of the oven at these other shops:

-Maple, located on Ancha de San Antonio across from the Telmex office;

-La Mesa Grande, located at the corner of Zacateros and Pila Seca; and

-Cumpanio, next door to the restaurant of the same name on Correo at Recreo.

You also can buy fine local breads at San Miguel’s favorite delis, including Queso de Luna, La Cava, Via Organica and Bové.

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-    Casa Allende, Calle San Francisco #25;  Tel:  152-1860

Celebrity chef Eduardo Osuna (who formerly worked at some of the best restaurants in Mexico City) has opened his fine, contemporary Mexican “alta cocina” restaurant to rave reviews.  Appetizers are especially tasty:  duck carnitas tacos, gorditas stuffed with fresh crabmeat and smoked marlin carpacchio.  Some main dishes include a thick ahi tuna steak sauteed in a tequila cream sauce, mahi mahi steamed with vegetables and herbs in a parchment package, and poblano chiles filled with marinated squid and octopus.  All served in three intimate dining rooms, or sit at the grand old bar.  Website:  http://www.casaallende.com.mx/

-   Cumpanio, Calle Correo #29;  Tel:  152-2327

This chic new dining room cum bakery to the side (hence the name) is run by the same chef who excels at the Dos Casas B&B restaurant.  Eclectic selection of salads, fish dishes and meats, all accompanied by the wonderful bakery breads.  Website features both bakery and restaurant photos at:  http://cumpanio.com/

-     Cafe Firenze, Salida a Celaya #3 (opposite the Longhorn);  Tel:  121-0763

Charming, casual Italian fare dished up in the streetside dining patio or upstairs in the breezy dining room with open arched windows.  Friendly talented chef/owners are Antonio and Gerardo.  Order the melt-in-your-mouth braised ribs or delicate homemade raviolis.  No wine list, but OK to bring your own (but be discreet about it – in a bag).  Open 12 pm to 4 pm for lunch/comida and from 5:30 – 9:30 pm for dinner.  Closed Mondays.

-    Hotel Matilda Restaurant, Calle Aldama #53 (former site of the venerable, now gone Villa Jacaranda Hotel);  Tel: 152 1015

Very chic, contemporary boutique hotel features a fine dining establishment.  Menu items include:  foie gras three ways; smoked duck breast, red mole rack of lamb, truffled asparagus; daily steak selections, plus a separate bar snack menu with custom pizzas and salads.  You can check menu specifics at:  http://www.hotelmatilda.com/enter.html.  Special events are the Sunday brunch and Thursday ladies night. Popular with the weekend Mexico City crowd.

-    Café Rama (newly expanded and reopening in June 2011), Calle Nemesio Diez #7 (street also is known as Calle Nueva or Paseo del Parque!), Tel: 154-9655

Gourmet café fare…but the real treat is Chef Jason’s special Friday night dinners, by reservation only, with a prix fixe of 400 pesos and a set tasting menu that changes each week, depending on what’s fresh and in season.  One recent menu:  oysters with truffle emulsion; an apple and mushroom salad; tilapia on spinach; pork with an amazing sauce; and your choice of chocolate crepes or a stunning carrot ginger cake.  Another Friday night menu:  Thai-style tuna carpacchio; prawns with fresh green curry and pineapple/coconut fried rice; rare beef salad with chayote/ginger/garlic; hot and sour seafood soup; dessert choice of warm coconut pudding with frozen lime parfait or chili-infused chocolate tarte.  Regular café hours (with a la carte menu) from 8am to 6 pm on Tues – Sat. Friday night dinners begin at 8 pm.  You can check out the changing menus online at:  http://www.cafe-rama.com/

-   1826 Restaurant at the Rosewood San Miguel Hotel, Calle Nemesio Diez #11;  Tel:  152-9700      

Open from 12 noon daily and into the evenings, the main dining room of the new Rosewood San Miguel features a Wednesday “enchilada night,” a Thursday “BBQ night”, plus tequila tastings on Fridays, as well as a Sunday brunch.  You also should visit the rooftop Luna Tapas Bar, open daily from 4 pm, with hands-down the best view of the San Miguel panorama, especially at sunset. It’s also possible to arrange for a private dinner in the wine cellar with a menu of your choosing – perfect for celebrating a special event.  Check out the Rosewood dining website at: http://www.rosewoodsanmiguel.com/en/dining.cfm

-    Mio Frio, Calle Mesones #66 (at the corner with Calle Hidalgo); Tel: 153 8639

Great new fat-free frozen yogurt shop, run by the same talented folks who own/operate the OKO Noodle Bar.  Located in Centro, so good for picking up a frozen treat to go as you walk around town.  Lots of flavors, plus a full array of toppings.

 -     Burrimania, Ancha de San Antonio # 2-A;  Tel: 154-4141

Casual burrito and taco place, with fresh, local organic ingredients “California-style”.  Great prices:  35 pesos for a regular burrito (variety of fillings, but love the pulled chicken); 45 pesos for a burrote (big size!);  40 pesos for a naked burrote (without tortilla);  35 pesos for an order of tacos – crunchy or soft; 45 pesos for side salads (rajas with chicken, nopales, jicama).  Newly-wed owners Roberto and Antonieta dish up their large plates Monday through Saturday from noon to 8 pm during May and June 2011.  After July 1st, they will be open on Sundays as well with expanded hours from 11 am to 11 pm.  Delivery possible to houses located within Centro, Guadiana, La Aldea and the first few blocks of San Antonio across from the Instituto.

This year, the countdown to Semana Santa (Holy Week) begins two weeks in advance of Easter Sunday.  A schedule of the festivities is below:

Sunday, April 10, Procession of Our Lord of the Column, 6:30am:  The festivities will begin with the extraordinary procession of the miraculous image of Our Lord of the Column (Señor de la Columna), who is transported by pilgrims on foot walking overnight from the sanctuary in Atotonilco (about 12 miles north of the city) into San Miguel to an honored resting spot in the church of San Juan de Dios, where it remains throughout the Easter season.  Locals and tourists alike start gathering shortly after dawn along Calle Independencia and San Antonio Abad, the last stretch of the procession, to see the flower carpets and witness the devout procession as it nears the church of San Juan de Dios in the western part of Centro.

Friday, April 15, Our Lady of Sorrows, 7pm:  On this day San Miguel is adorned with purple, white and green to celebrate the day of Our Lady of Sorrows. Although these celebrations are not well known in all parts of the country, in Guanajuato the day is celebrated every year with great fervor. In homes, businesses and public spaces, decorated altars are on display late into the night, and their creators offer visitors cool fruit drinks and ice cream, representing the tears of Mary.  Throughout San Miguel, the old fountains are also decorated, and residents walk from fountain to fountain, admiring the altars en route.

Sunday, April 17, Palm Sunday, 11am:  The first day of Holy Week is known as Palm Sunday. In San Miguel, the celebration includes two processions representing Christ’s entry into Jerusalem, where He was received by onlookers waving palm fronds. The first procession begins at the chapel of El Calvario, located at the top of Calle San Francisco, from which a man portraying Christ rides a donkey at the head of the procession, followed by the 12 apostles. The procession ends at the church of San Francisco. The second procession leaves the Parroquia around 11am and circles the Jardin.

Wednesday, April 20, Holy Wednesday, 5pm:  A major celebration is the Via Crucis (Way of the Cross), which begins at the Oratorio church at 5pm and represents the 14 stations of Christ’s path to martyrdom, carrying the cross. The procession uses the 14 stations marked with a stone cross at certain walls of the main streets of downtown, starting at the Iglesia de la Santa Escuela and ending at the Capilla del Calvario.

Friday, April 22, Good Friday, 11am & 5pm:  Friday is the climax of the religious celebrations with two processions, the Sacred Encounter (Santo Encuentro), representing the meeting of Jesus with his mother on his way to Calvary leaving the Parroquia at 11am, and the Holy Burial, the longest and more solemn procession departing from the Oratorio church at 5pm with about 2,000 sanmiguelense dressed as uniformed Roman soldiers, angels, pallbearers and mourners to accompany statues of archangels, an 18th century life-size figure of the Virgin of Solitude, and a statue of the body of Jesus.

The Shrine of Atotonilco, now a UNESCO World Heritage site and religiously linked to San Miguel, has its own representation of the Via Crucis. It begins on Holy Thursday at 8pm with a restaging of the Last Supper and the arrest of Jesus at Gethsemane . At noon on Good Friday, it continues with the trial of Jesus before Pontius Pilate on the shrine’s esplanade. The barefoot Christ, wearing a crown of thorns, is flogged relentlessly on the back as he carries the cross to the place of crucifixion, near the entrance to the town. The procession lasts about one hour, culminating in Christ’s being tied to the cross in a simulated crucifixion.

A similar Via Crucis takes place in the working-class colonia of San Luis Rey just north of San Miguel, which begins on Thursday at 7pm with the ceremony in which Jesus washes his disciples’ feet . It continues Friday morning at 9am with the trial before Pontius Pilate. The Via Crucis with Jesus carrying the 65-kilogram wooden cross takes place over cobblestone streets for two kilometers to the place of crucifixion in the nearby colonia of Montes de Loreto.

Sunday, April 24, Destruction of Judases, noon:  Celebrations for Semana Santa end with the traditional destruction and blowing up of the papiêr-maché Judases at the Plaza Principal on the street between the Jardín and the former Presidencia building.

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CHRISTMAS EVE, 24 DEC:

-          La Puertacita Boutique Hotel Restaurant, Santo Domingo #75; 152-5011; 7-10 pm

480 pesos, plus 15% service fee:  Special Holiday Meal, incl. smoked salmon crepe; cream of mandarin soup or Christmas salad; turkey with gravy or salmon Portugal-style, yuletide log or glazed lime tartlet. 

-          The Restaurant, Sollano #16; 154-7877; 5-9 pm

495 pesos, plus service fee:  Special Holiday Meal, incl. duck liver mousse w/sweet shallots on croutons; prosciutto and lemon-stuff pork loin with roasted new potatoes/carrots/brussel sprouts or roasted turkey w/mole poblano sauce, goat cheese and chipotle chile tamalitos, braised Swiss chard and red rice; cinnamon churros with Mexican hot chocolate or classic pecan pie with whipped cream.

-          Casa Allende, San Francisco #25; 152-1860

650 pesos, incl. special holiday bar open until 3 am!  Special menu: starter of pepper/eggplant/onion confit on rustic bread; salad of 3 cheeses with cranberries or cream of potato soup; tuna sautéed in mandarins/fruit sauce or grilled filet of beef with Oporto sauce or roast duck with guayaba chile sauce;  dessert cup of red fruits in Grand Marnier cream; free bar with tequila, rum, vodka, Scotch, red/white wine, Baileys, plus live music.

-          Jackie’s San Antonio, Plaza de San Antonio #4; 110-2223; from 1 pm onward

550 pesos:  amuse bouche, crab mousse or ravioli filled with pumpkin/amaretto, roasted quail in orange Madeira sauce with red cabbage and vegetables or beef filet in Bordeaux sauce with potato/apple puree and vegetables, pear/apple tart with custard cream sauce or amaretto parfait with raspberries/vanilla sauce.

-          Hotel Matilda, Aldama #53; 152-0811

523 pesos, plus VAT and service:  Special Christmas Eve Menu, incl.  smoked trout with fresh dill/caper/crème fraiche and toasted brioche or jumbo poached shrimp cocktail or local prosciutto and melon; baby spinach/cheese/grilled mushroom salad with homemade bacon and cherry vinaigrette or mixed organic lettuces with spiced pecan/ginger/cranberry vinaigrette with local goat cheese; herb-roasted turkey, giblet gravy, whipped sweet potatoes and green beans or slow-roasted strip of American sirloin with horseradish potato gratin, chipotle-glazed carrots or pan-seared salmon with sautéed chard, buttermilk mashed potatoes, tangerine-terragon beurre blanc; whiskey blue-cheese apple pie with homemade vanilla ice cream or roasted pear and cherry trifle or holiday fruitcake with crème anglaise, includes 2 glasses of house wine.

-          Restaurante Iberico, Mesones #101; 152-6154

By special advance order (194-550 pesos):  whole suckling pig or ¼ roast lamb.  Also – grilled 10-oz rib eye or whole red snapper. Call for prices and other menu items and tapas.

-          Boca Bento at Los Senderos; Ave. Central #101; 11 am – 8 pm;  155-9594

480 pesos, includes one glass of wine and dessert:  Three-course meal, incl. carrot ginger soup or spicy chicken soup; organic mixed greens or arugula salad; almond-crusted beef medallions or cardamom-glazed jumbo shrimp; desserts.

-          Casa de Sierra Nevada, Hospicio #2 (Andanza Restaurant in Casa Principal); 152-7040 (main hotel desk)

Shellfish bisque, mole sauce-crusted shrimp, poached Maori fish, stuffed roast turkey with quince adobo, chocolate Yule log.  Call for reservations and prices.  Music from 7:30 pm…

-          Casa de Sierra Nevada, Santa Elena #2 (Restaurante Casa del Parque); 152-7040 (main hotel desk)

Traditional sautéed Romeritos with sweet corn, Vizcaino black cod milfoil, traditional stuffed roast turkey with mushroom tian and fresh cranberry sauce, traditional bread pudding and chestnut ice cream. Call for reservations and prices.  Music from 7:30 pm…

-          Tacos Don Feliz, Fray Juan de San Miguel #15 (Col. San Rafael);  152-5719 (reservations and 50% deposit a must!)

Special Dinner:  cream of corn soup or Caesar salad; salmon a la almondine or medallions of beef filet with mushrooms; caramel crepes with ice cream; house wine “all you can drink”.  Call for prices.

CHRISTMAS DAY, 25 DEC:

-          Mi Casa Restaurant, Ancha de San Antonio #20 (inside Instituto Allende), 1-10 pm; 154-5890

300 pesos:  Three courses, incl. pumpkin soup or cream of nut with chipotle chiles; oven-roasted turkey or glazed baked ham; traditional Mexican bunuelos or spiced apple cake.

-          El Buen Café, Jesus #36; 152-5807

390 pesos, plus 15% service fee.   Holiday Buffet:  Roast turkey w/mushroom gravy, peppered beef filet w/cognac cream, roasted garlic mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes w/pecans, creamed spinach, cornbread dressing, corn pudding, assorted homemade breads and salads, pies galore plus pumpkin cheesecake and Kahlua truffle cake.

-          Shanti San Miguel (outside of town; call for taxi service:  (415) 100-8396); 11 am to 5 pm.

200 pesos:  Jamaican-Style Christmas Day, with Jamaican patties, jerk chicken and pork, red beans and rice, cornbread and Jamaican fruitcake.  Cash bar with potent libations!

-          Casa de Sierra Nevada, Hospicio #2 (Andanza Restaurant in Casa Principal); 152-7040 (main hotel desk)

Live music at a special Christmas brunch starting at 1 pm on Christmas Day.  Call for reservations and prices.

-          La Mansion del Bosque, Aldama at Parque Juarez, corner with Tenerias;  152-0277; 1:30 – 3:30 pm with music

320 pesos, plus 15% service:  Tomato-basil soup, beet mold, roast turkey with cornbread stuffing, mashed potatoes, spinach supreme, yams glazed with honey butter, eggnog pie or date roll

-          Hotel Quinta Loreto, Loreto #15; 152-0042 or 152-3616

260 pesos, plus service:  fresh cranberry salad, cream of squash soup, roast fresh turkey with jalapeno cornbread stuffing and gravy, glazed sweet potatoes, fresh vegetables, mincemeat/pumpkin or pecan pie with ice cream, one glass of red or white wine.

-          Boca Bento at Los Senderos; Ave. Central #101; 11 am – 8 pm;  155-9594

480 pesos, includes one glass of wine and dessert:  Three-course meal, incl. carrot ginger soup or spicy chicken soup; organic mixed greens or arugula salad; almond-crusted beef medallions or cardamom-glazed jumbo shrimp; desserts.

-          Jackie’s San Antonio, Plaza de San Antonio #4; 110-2223; from 1 pm onward (same as on 24 Dec)

550 pesos:  amuse bouche, crab mousse or ravioli filled with pumpkin/amaretto, roasted quail in orange Madeira sauce with red cabbage and vegetables or beef filet in Bordeaux sauce with potato/apple puree and vegetables, pear/apple tart with custard cream sauce or amaretto parfait with raspberries/vanilla sauce.

-          Casa Allende, San Francisco #25; 152-1860

Special Xmas Day meal with traditional “bacalao a la vizcaina” (Basque cod dish), Romeritos, turkey, salad bar, holiday cocktails of the house.  Call for time and prices.

-          Hotel Matilda, Aldama #53; 152-0811

Offering a brunch menu (elegant egg dishes, brioche French toast, lighter fare) on both Christmas Day (Saturday) and on Sunday, December 26, from 11 am to 4 pm.

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