A 20-min sound-and-light show displays the history of Mexico across the stone facade of San Miguel's Parroquia church on weekend nights during the bicentennial celebrations. (Photo courtesy of Ricardo Vidargas)

As September draws near, Mexico is preparing for the “fiestas patrias,” the annual celebration of the country’s independence from Spain.  This year, the celebrations will be grander than usual, as 2010 marks the bicentennial of the famous “el Grito,” the cry for independence that rang out in the city of Dolores Hidalgo, just 20 min by car northwest of San Miguel.  Festivities are already underway.

The New York Times recently featured a  good review of the sights and historic stops along the newly designated “Ruta 2010″ (probably best translated as “Mexico’s Freedom Trail”), which links San Miguel with Dolores Hidalgo and Guanajuato, three cities that all played an important role in the independence movement.  You can see the full article at the URL link included at the bottom of this blog post.

In addition, besides the parades and fireworks, a special sound-and-light show representing the history of Mexico will be displayed across the facade of San Miguel’s beloved Parroquia church every Friday and Saturday night at 9 pm for at least the next two months.

Link to NY Times article:  http://travel.nytimes.com/2010/08/22/travel/22Mexico.html

Another article about Mexico’s Freedom Trail (with mention of San Miguel) also appeared on 22 Aug 2010 in the Chicago Sun Times:  http://www.suntimes.com/lifestyles/travel/2621010,mexico-bicentennial-hidalgo-082210.article

The restaurant scene in San Miguel keeps getting better and better, even in tough economic times.  Here are some new places to try on your next visit to San Miguel:

-Café Iberico: Calle Mesones #101 (across from Teatro Angela Peralta); Tel: 150-0067

This Spanish tapas bar and paella restaurant moved several months ago from its much smaller former location in Colonia San Antonio into the larger dining room and patio on Calle Mesones where Restaurante Nirvana used to be (and that establishment has now moved out of town to a lush country location near Atotonilco).  Come to Café Iberico for a drink and a snack, and you’ll end up making a whole dinner out of the very tasty small plates of fried avocado, chile shrimp, merluza (firm, white fish) in white wine/parsley sauce, jamon de serrano, fried pimientos del padron, Spanish meatballs, and much more. 

 -Mezzanine Bistro by Bobo:  Cuna de Allende #11, alongside and across from the Parroquia (go back through the patio and up the little stairs); Tel: 152-2799

A chic, intimate Continental restaurant with prix-fixe menu prices for week-day lunch (250 pesos) and weekend dinners (350 pesos).  The owners are from France and Portugal, and the menu reflects both the best of local seasonal ingredients and the owners’ two culinary heritages:  Lisboa espresso beef filet with gratin dauphinois; fish “meuniere” sautéed with a lemon butter sauce; Azorean aioli prawns sautéed with peppers & onions; stuffed roasted eggplant with goat cheese, baby arugula and walnuts in a red pepper and tomato coulis; chocolate mousse layer cake; and Alsatian pear tarte.  The menu changes weekly and you can bring your own wine for a small corkage fee.  Reservations essential!  The owners also operate the Bobo home décor store in the same patio.

 -El Rincon de la Malinche (in the spot formerly occupied by La Capilla): Cuna de Allende #10, attached to the back side of the Parroquia; Tel: 152-0698

Newly opened in mid-Aug 2010, this restaurant/music venue arguably has the best and most romantic setting in San Miguel, with its ancient stone walls and lovely roof terrace looking right up into the spire of the Parroquia church.  A bar downstairs features live music Thurs – Sat from 6 pm to midnight.  For now, there is a brunch menu most days of the week featuring various egg benedict dishes, house-cured mezcal lox, traditional Mexican morning meals, waffles and blackened salmon.

 -La Sirena Gorda (aka El Manantial, the original neighborhood cantina name since 1920!): Calle Barranca at the corner with Calle Huertas, in residential SE Centro 

A casual neighborhood pub with simple lunch and dinner fare to enjoy inside or on the back patio.  Currently has a reputation for dishing up the best fish tacos in San Miguel (try the smoked ahi tuna taco)!  Local, lively bar scene at night.

-OKO Noodle Bar:  In the Plaza Alhondiga, across from Mega on your right as you head out of town on Salida a Celaya; Tel: 110-3283

A small, funky Asian fusion restaurant with a fresh menu, live music, and a fun, hip vibe.  Creative cocktails (try the wasabi martini!) complement the simple Asia fare – tempura ahi tuna, rice-paper spring rolls, very fresh noodle salads and Vietnamese Pho soups, plus Pad Thai.

 -The Blue Iguana (in the spot formerly occupied by Cerveceria “San Miguel”): Carretera San Miguel/Dolores Hidalgo, Km. 1 – just north of the Aurora Design Center; Tel: 154-7888

The former somewhat funky brew pub has undergone a metamorphisis and re-emerged as a trendy BBQ café and microbrewery serving whole-baked garlic heads for appetizers, a variety of grilled meats, plus pizzas from the wood-burning oven and fried catfish.  The artisanal beers on tap are unique in San Miguel!

-Via Organica Café (inside San Miguel’s most extensive organic market and food shop): Calle Margarito Ledesma #2 (in Colonia Guadalupe, just north of Centro); Tel: 152-8042

Open every day from 8:30 am to 7 pm, with Sunday brunch from 12 – 4 pm

-Shanti San Miguel (a yoga retreat about 45 min northeast of town – for transportation, call Saul Hernandez at 044-415-113-4140): For Shanti meal or massage reservations, call:  044-415-100-8396

The restaurant around the lovely Shanti pool now serves an organic brunch, Indian food and Korean tacos and BBQ on Saturdays and Sundays.  Makes a nice outing, if you call to reserve a massage or partake of the yoga classes and use the pool.

 These existing favorites have new menus this year, which you might want to check out:

 -Dos Casas (inside the B&B of the same name): Calle Quebrada # 101 (at the corner with Calle Umaran); Tel: 154-4073 or 154-4958

Open daily from 9 am to 9 pm for breakfast, lunch and dinner.  Not only a new menu and new chef, but a totally revamped and newly redecorated dining room as well.  Cute little wine bar and central patio, in addition to the inside dining space.

 -Los Senderos Bistro (Part of the Los Senderos development just 2.5 km north of town but entered off the Libramiento; easy to reach via taxi); Tel: 155-9594

Check their blog for more info on Chef Gustavo Calderon’s new menu:  http://los-senderos.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/MENU-INGLESsin.pdf

 -El Tomato (not just vegetarian anymore, as the new menu also features select beef, fish and turkey with new Argentine-Italian fusion fare): Calle Mesones # 62; Tel: 154-6390

Open for lunch and dinner, 12 pm to 9 pm

And, some SAD NEWS:  Unfortunately, these restaurants have CLOSED during the past year:

- El Campanario – a wonderful, long-time establishment for elegant dining with great seafood

- Billy’s Hot Dogs – a fun casual spot with a good variety of sausages

- El Bajo Fondo – a lovely patio restaurant known for its organic vegetarian fare

- Cha-Cha-Cha – one of the best neighborhood (San Antonio) places for traditional Mexican food

http://www.festivalsanmiguel.com/

http://www.travelandleisure.com/worldsbest/2010/cities/top-10-cities/6

Al fresco diners enjoy the lovely gardens at the Nirvana Restaurant/Retreat near Atotonilco.

Visitors who want a sense of the lovely countryside around San Miguel often combine a country outing with a Sunday brunch or weekend comida at a “destination” restaurant.  Some of our favorite places for dining in the country are:

Patsy’s Place… At a rancho north of town, off the road to Dolores Hidalgo.  Turn right just opposite the Atotonilco Pemex station and follow the signs through a small village and across alfalfa fields and a cattle ranch to end up at Patsy’s Place, also known as Rancho Las Hadas Madrinas (Rancho of the Fairy Godmothers).  Local caterer and event planner Patsy DuBois opens her wonderful country kitchen and dining terrace to weekend visitors for a special prix-fixe brunch.  Reservations are a must.  Tel:  185-2151.  You also can make arrangements with Patsy for private cooking classes at her rancho.

Ristaurante da Andrea at Hacienda Landeta… East of town on the Carretera a Dr. Mora at Km. 2.5.  On the grounds of an old hacienda, Italian restauranteur Andrea runs arguably one of the best restaurants in the area, with lunch and dinner available Thurs – Sun.  His homemade raviolis are to die for, and the seasonal menu of grilled meats and fish is recited by the waiters tableside, since there are no printed menus.  You simply order what is fresh that day.  Reservations needed to secure an outside table.  Tel:  120-3481.

Nirvana Restaurant/Retreat… Inside Rancho Las Palmas, near La Gruta and El Cortijo north of town off the road to Dolores.  The adobe structures and lovely grounds of a private rancho have been turned into the new (as of April 2010) locale of Nirvana Restaurant, long a favorite dining spot in town for Mexican fusion cuisine, which has now moved to the country.   Plans include adding several guest rooms and a spa to transform the rancho into a true nirvana retreat.  Call ahead to check which days it’s open (variable).  Tel:  185-2194.

The Bistro at Los Senderos… Part of the Los Senderos development just 2.5 km north of town but entered off the Libramiento, which includes a winery, an equestrian center, residential areas and lots of green space. The Bistro overlooks a bucolic setting from its open-air dining knoll alongside the restaurant’s organic garden.  Open for lunch Wed – Sun and evenings by reservation.  There’s also a weekend brunch and tapas menu in addition to contemporary seasonal offerings and grilled items.  Tel:  155-9571 or 155-9594.

La Burger… A fun roadside café, about 7 km north of town on the road to Dolores before you get to La Gruta hotsprings.  This casual open-air dining spot features a simple menu, superbly prepared, of grilled hamburgers and steaks over the large mesquite BBQ, with homemade parsley fries.  Open Wed – Sat, 1 – 9 pm and Sun from 1 – 6 pm.  Tel (cell only):  044-415-114-0073.

http://isitsafetotraveltomexico.com/